{"id":761,"date":"2023-02-20T17:37:10","date_gmt":"2023-02-20T16:37:10","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/inspiring-dreams.fr\/?p=761"},"modified":"2023-03-21T09:07:59","modified_gmt":"2023-03-21T08:07:59","slug":"essaouira-mogador","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/inspiring-dreams.fr\/?p=761","title":{"rendered":"ESSAOUIRA – MOGADOR"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Entre dunes et \u00e9cume, la cit\u00e9 portuaire d\u2019Essaouira dresse ses fortifications et sa silhouette blanche face \u00e0 l’oc\u00e9an nourricier et sauvage.\u00a0.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Les yeux s’y baladent, curieux et gourmands, ind\u00e9pendants des jambes qui prennent un malin plaisir \u00e0 choisir le chemin le plus aventureux. S’y perdre devient un jeu et un but. Tandis que l\u2019on recherche des beaut\u00e9s architecturales cach\u00e9es derri\u00e8re les vieilles portes ouvrag\u00e9es, on y croise des artisans souriant sur le seuil de leur \u00e9choppe, des enfants tout \u00e0 leurs jeux d’enfants, les voiles blancs et noirs ondulants des femmes forc\u00e9ment drap\u00e9es de myst\u00e8re, tout en \u00e9vitant les carrioles \u00e0 bras d\u00e9bordant de fruits m\u00fbrs ou de mat\u00e9riaux improbables pouss\u00e9es par des laborieux empress\u00e9s\u2026 il y a dans ce th\u00e9\u00e2tre \u00e0 ciel ouvert, cette chor\u00e9graphie improvis\u00e9e et parfaite, cette animation d\u00e9bordante, un sentiment de temps suspendu, de parenth\u00e8se bienveillante, un bonheur simple \u00e0 se trouver l\u00e0.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Le c\u0153ur de la cit\u00e9 bat et tambourine mais sans agressivit\u00e9 et pourtant l’activit\u00e9 y est intense. Ce sont les bazars qui d\u00e9bordent d’ustensiles, de plateaux d’\u00e9pices multicolores et de sacs de graines o\u00f9 les moineaux bienvenus viennent picorer, ici le partage est sacr\u00e9, les \u00e9choppes touristiques o\u00f9 s\u2019amoncellent poteries, tapis, bijoux, marqueterie, accessoires en cuir et rem\u00e8des herboristes insens\u00e9s, les march\u00e9s bariol\u00e9s aux \u00e9tals surcharg\u00e9s, le port qui, \u00e0 l’heure du retour des bateaux de p\u00eache, promet cris, cohues et savoureuses grillades. La vie \u00e0 l\u2019\u00e9tat pur, l\u2019effervescence joyeuse.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Au c\u0153ur de la m\u00e9dina se trouve la place Moulay Hassan, bord\u00e9s de caf\u00e9s dont le c\u00e9l\u00e8bre Caf\u00e9 de France fond\u00e9 en 1917 lorsque le Maroc \u00e9tait sous protectorat fran\u00e7ais et que la ville s’appelait Mogador. Lieu de rendez-vous incontournable pour les Souiri et le caf\u00e9 au lait du matin. \u00c0 quelques enjamb\u00e9es, Chez Driss, une institution p\u00e2tissi\u00e8re v\u00e9n\u00e9rable o\u00f9 l\u2019on peut d\u00e9guster ses g\u00e2teaux accompagn\u00e9s d\u2019un th\u00e9 \u00e0 la menthe dans un patio ombrag\u00e9. Plus loin, les fortifications o\u00f9 il faut se rendre sur une des deux Sqalas, plateforme d’artillerie du XVIIIe si\u00e8cle avec sa dizaine de canons de bronze espagnols, devenue depuis longtemps une promenade et un point de vue sur l’Atlantique.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Le port, attraction incontournable, poumon \u00e9conomique de la cit\u00e9 depuis toujours, o\u00f9 se croisent, petits p\u00eacheurs, gros chalutiers, n\u00e9gociants marocains et espagnols, restaurateurs et particuliers venus faire leur march\u00e9, touristes curieux et fascin\u00e9s et bien s\u00fbr les milliers de go\u00e9lands g\u00e9ants et criards qui sont aussi invasifs qu’ils sont n\u00e9cessaires au nettoyage des quais, v\u00e9ritables \u00e9boueurs maritimes, qui se partagent le territoire avec les centaines de chats. \u00c0 deux pas, le chantier naval et ses activit\u00e9s de construction et de r\u00e9paration o\u00f9 le bruit des outils se m\u00eale aux cris des ouvriers qui se r\u00e9pondent d’un bateau \u00e0 l’autre\u2026 La visite du port \u00e9tait devenue pour nous un rituel quotidien pour d\u00e9nicher les plus belles pi\u00e8ces de turbot, saint-pierre, araign\u00e9es ou cigales de mer. La trop belle vie\u2009!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Je me suis rendu \u00e0 Mogador plusieurs fois et mes enfants chaque \u00e9t\u00e9 durant leurs quinze premi\u00e8res ann\u00e9es, chez leurs grands-parents qui y avaient travaill\u00e9 et poss\u00e9daient une villa en front de mer \u00e0 l’entr\u00e9e de la ville. Nous gardons tous un souvenir \u00e9mu de cette cit\u00e9, qui a \u00e9volu\u00e9 et s’est [sur]d\u00e9velopp\u00e9e touristiquement ces derni\u00e8res ann\u00e9es, au point d’y avoir implant\u00e9 un a\u00e9roport avec une ligne directe depuis Paris, mais la magie op\u00e8re toujours.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Il y fait doux, m\u00eame en plein \u00e9t\u00e9, gr\u00e2ce aux vents marins, vents souvent violents durant cette p\u00e9riode, d\u2019o\u00f9 l\u2019attrait des surfeurs. La lumi\u00e8re \u00e9volue chaque heure et passe son temps \u00e0 habiller les fa\u00e7ades blanches de la m\u00e9dina de couleurs changeantes et cin\u00e9matographiques. Les Suiri sont chaleureux et bienveillants. Le temps s’y \u00e9coule le plus agr\u00e9ablement du monde.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Les balades et les activit\u00e9s sont nombreuses \u00e0 Mogador et ses alentours. Plages sauvages ou plages r\u00e9put\u00e9es pour ses spots de surf et de kitesurf, ses balades dans les dunes en chameau, en quad ou en 4×4\u2026 ses vir\u00e9es en campagne o\u00f9 poussent les arganiers dans lesquels grimpent et broutent les ch\u00e8vres et dont les graines des fruits produisent la fameuse huile d\u2019Argan\u2026 la visite du domaine viticole \u00ab Le Val d\u2019Argan \u00bb r\u00e9f\u00e9rence nationale fournisseur des meilleures tables et dont le propri\u00e9taire, install\u00e9 depuis presque tente ans, est un ancien viticulteur de Ch\u00e2teauneuf du Pape\u2026 Essaouira est \u00e9galement une ville d\u2019art et de culture avec son centre d\u2019Art Contemporain et ses nombreuses galeries et expositions ainsi que ses festivals de Jazz, de Rythmes Gnaoua et Musique du Monde, sans oublier le fant\u00f4me de Jimmy Hendrix et son portrait que l\u2019on peut croiser dans la ville suite \u00e0 un s\u00e9jour et qui avait, selon la l\u00e9gende, \u00e9lu domicile \u00e0 Diabat, un petit hameau voisin.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Mogador. J’aime tellement cet ancien nom (il provient du ph\u00e9nicien \u00ab\u00a0Migdol\u00a0\u00bb signifiant \u00ab\u00a0petite forteresse, et Essaouira vient de l’arabe \u00ab\u00a0Al Suwaira\u00a0\u00bb signifiant lui aussi \u00ab\u00a0la petite forteresse). Son nom est \u00e9videmment li\u00e9 aux fortifications de ce port commercial fond\u00e9 au XVIIIe si\u00e8cle, sur le mod\u00e8le Vauban, destin\u00e9 \u00e0 commercer avec l\u2019Europe que l\u2019on souhaitait prot\u00e9ger des pirates et des envahisseurs. Cette merveille architecturale est non seulement une perle marocaine mais c\u2019est \u00e9galement une escale bienveillante.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Vous ai-je conseill\u00e9 d\u2019y aller absolument\u2009? C\u2019est fait\u2009!<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Entre dunes et \u00e9cume, la cit\u00e9 portuaire d\u2019Essaouira dresse ses fortifications et sa silhouette blanche face \u00e0 l’oc\u00e9an nourricier et sauvage.\u00a0. Les yeux s’y baladent, curieux et gourmands, ind\u00e9pendants des jambes qui prennent un malin plaisir \u00e0 choisir le chemin le plus aventureux. S’y perdre devient un jeu et un but. Tandis<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":10,"featured_media":762,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[4,3],"tags":[50,44],"class_list":["post-761","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-coups-de-coeur","category-idees-voyages","tag-essaouira","tag-maroc"],"yoast_head":"\nESSAOUIRA - MOGADOR - Inspiring Dreams<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Entre dunes et \u00e9cume, la cit\u00e9 portuaire d\u2019Essaouira dresse ses fortifications et sa silhouette blanche face \u00e0 l'oc\u00e9an nourricier et sauvage.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/inspiring-dreams.fr\/?p=761\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"ESSAOUIRA - 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